A Storybook Village in France: Our Short Escape to Conques

"Little town, it's a quiet village..." If you've seen Beauty and the Beast, you'll know exactly what I mean when I say that stepping into Conques felt like walking straight into the movie. Does that make me Belle? Or Jeff the beast?

Nestled in the hillside of southern France, Conques is a beautifully preserved medieval village. Its remote location has helped maintain its old-world charm, with narrow, winding roads that are inaccessible to buses and large vehicles. Most visitors explore on foot, and if you do, comfortable shoes are a must! The cobblestone streets are picturesque but not exactly ideal for fancy footwear. 

How We Got There

We started our journey in Barcelona, taking a train to Narbonne, where we rented a car and hit the road to Conques. A direct drive would have taken about three hours, but we couldn't resist making a couple of stops along the way. With narrow, winding roads leading through the countryside, pausing at local wineries was the perfect way to break up the trip. 

Side note: If you're planning to drive in this region, be prepared for a manual transmission. I, for one, can't drive stick but Jeff (my husband) assured me he could. What I didn't realize was that he had learned a decade ago and was relying on muscle memory to figure it out. 

Let's just say there were some trial and error moments. Exhibit A: As we tried to leave the rental lot, we had to insert a ticket into a machine to raise the exit gate. Jeff put in the ticket, the gate lifted and...he immediately stalled the car. The gate came down, and we were stuck. 

I had to run back inside and, in my best (and very broken) French, explain our predicament. Thankfully, they gave us a new ticket, and we were back on the road - but not before I started seriously questioning how this three-hour drive was going to go. 

First Stop: Seigneurie de Peyrat

Just forty-five minutes into our drive, we made our first stop at Seigneurie de Peyrat, and from the moment it came into view, we were in awe. This historic estate is known for its stunning grounds, charming tasting rooms, and welcoming atmosphere. 

During peak travel seasons, visitors can take a guided wine tour through the vineyards and estate, followed by a tasting in the picturesque courtyard. However, since we arrived during a quieter time, we had the place entirely to ourselves - a rare and special experience. 

Our tasting took place in the boutique, where we had the opportunity to sample from fifteen different wines, each with its own unique story. Beyond wine, the boutique also offers an array of local gourmet products, including jams, syrups, olives and more. Naturally, we couldn't resist picking up a few delicious snacks to enjoy the rest of our road trip. 

Second Stop: Domaine Croizat

Nestled in the picturesque Marcillac valley, the vineyard plots of Domaine Croizat beautifully line the hillside. This family-run winery has been passed down for over 500 years, preserving its legacy of craftsmanship and exclusivity. In fact, their wines are so sought that they are only distributed to select nearby regions. Domaine Croizat offers three reds and one rose - each one a testament to the vineyard's rich history and dedication to quality. 

Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by the owner, whose hospitality made the experience even more special - despite the language barrier. With the help of Google translate, we chatted about the vineyard's history, explored the estate, and, of course, indulged in a tasting. The wine was exceptional, and we couldn't resist bringing a bottle home to share with family. A truly unique and delicious souvenir! 

Tip: If you're planning to bring a bottle home, consider packing a wine travel sleeve to keep it safe in your luggage. These protective sleeves help cushion the bottle and prevent any unfortunate spills - because the only thing worse than lost luggage is a suitcase full of broken glass and spilled wine! 

Where We Stayed

Le Castellou is a delightful bed and breakfast that greets travelers as they approach Conques on the GR 65. Under new ownership, this charming retreat is run by a couple from New Zealand - making communication effortless for English speakers. Their warm hospitality and insightful recommendations helped us to make the most of our time exploring the village.

In the morning, we were treated to a homemade breakfast, lovingly prepared and the perfect start to our day of adventure. From the cozy ambiance to the personal touches, Le Castellou made our stay in Conques even more special. 

Exploring the Village

Abbey Church of Saint-Foye

Standing at the heart of the village is Abbey Church of Saint-Foye, a site steeped in centuries of history. If these walls could talk, they would have countless stories to tell about the past and the many events that have unfolded within and around them. 

Originally built in the eighth-century, the monastery was established by monks fleeing from Spain. However, the church you see today dates back to the eleventh-century, when the arrival of Saint-Foye's relics called for a larger space to house them. (Spoiler alert: there's quite a bit of drama surrounding these relics - but more on that in the next section!) 

For a deeper appreciation of the intricate architecture and fascinating history, I highly recommend taking a guided tour. Pay special attention to the detailed mural above the entrance, depicting the Last Judgment and the seven deadly sins - a masterpiece that tells its own chilling story. 

 

The Relics of Sainte Foye

Sainte Foye was a young Christian martyr who was persecuted by the Romans for refusing to renounce her faith. Despite enduring torture, she remained steadfast in her beliefs, and, over time, she became revered for her unwavering devotion. 

However, the story of her relics is as dramatic as it is sacred. In what became known as the "holy theft", a monk from Conques stole the relics of Sainte Foye - including her head - from another monastery. While this might seem scandalous, such acts were often justified at the time as divine will, especially if it meant bringing a powerful relic to a new, more "worthy" home. 

Today, her relics are enshrined within the golden statue of Sainte Foye, which can be seen in the abbey's museum. This statue played a crucial role in the belief that saints were not just honored through their relics - but that the relics held supernatural powers. Many believed that relics of saints could hear, see and even grant prayers and petitions to those who sought divine interventions. 

Sainte Foye became one of the most revered saints of her time. People believed she could heal the sick, free the enslaved, and even raise the dead. Pilgrims traveled from far and wide to Conques, hoping to receive her miraculous blessings - making the village an essential stop along the famous Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. 

The Pont Romain Bridge 

This historic bridge was once said to be the sole entrance into Conques, serving as the crossing point for pilgrims over the Dourdou River. Its name originates from romius, the Occitan word for pilgrims. Originally built centuries ago, the bridge underwent reconstruction in the 15th and 16th centuries, preserving its significance as a vital passageway. 

According to the legend, Charlemagne himself crossed this bridge on his knees, making his way through the village and up to the abbey - a testament to the deep spiritual and historical importance of this route. 

Where We Ate

Since we visited during the low travel season, dining options in town were limited. Aside from our bed and breakfast, there was just one restaurant open - so we made sure to plan our day accordingly. 

That one option? Le Charlemagne, a French restaurant that turned out to be absolutely exceptional. 

For dinner, they seated us by the window, offering a breathtaking view of the village - a truly romantic experience. Of course, we had to order our first creme brûlée of the trip, and it did not disappoint. 

Then, for lunch before we left, we opted for a seat on the balcony, soaking in the incredible scenery one more time. It was the perfect sendoff before our next adventure.

 

Must Do: Walk Around the Village at Night

As soon as we finished dinner, the restaurant closed behind us - we were one of only two couples dining that night. By the time we stepped outside, darkness had settled over the village, and the town lights flickered on, casting a warm glow over the medieval streets. It was breathtakingly beautiful - though eerily quiet, adding a touch of mystery to the atmosphere. 

We took an evening stroll through the cobblestone streets, soaking in the peacefulness of Conques at night. It was the perfect way to reflect on our day, making for an unexpectedly romantic end to the day. If you ever find yourself here, don't miss the chance to wander the village after sunset - it's an experience you won't forget.

On to the Next Adventure

As we packed up and prepared to head off to our next adventure, we brought our suitcases downstairs, and Jeff went to get the car. And then...he got it stuck on the curb - right where he's standing in the picture. 

The turn was so sharp that he managed to get three wheels on the road and one completely off. I might have been laughing from the bed and breakfast window, but Jeff forgave me...eventually. (That's why I made him take this picture - proof of the struggle!) 

Thankfully, our gracious B&B host and a few helpful locals - who had clearly seen this happen before - came to the rescue. With a little teamwork, we got the car unstuck and were finally on our way. With just a forty-five minute drive to the airport, our only goal was to keep the car in one piece until we got there!

Aurillac Airport 

We love traveling and one thing we do to try to alleviate anxiety is arriving at airports with plenty of time. On our way to Paris, we followed our usual routine and arrived to Aurillac Airport well ahead of schedule - too early in fact. 

We showed up two hours before departure, only to find the airport locked. Confused, we asked a ticket agent if we needed to check in elsewhere. As politely as possible, they told us to leave and return just thirty minutes before takeoff. 

With time to spare, we grabbed lunch at a nearby restaurant before heading back. The moment we returned, we understood why the agent gave us that timeframe - the entire airport consisted of one single gate. From the front door, we went straight through security, walked to the tarmac, and boarded the plane. Just like that, we were off to our next adventure!

Stepping into this village felt like living out my childhood dream of being a Disney princess - minus the yellow dress and with far more practical footwear. Though our stay lasted only 24 hours, every moment was nothing short of magical.